모텔출장 전라북도출장맛사지

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    Certain clichés, some more tenacious than others, define generations of Indian restaurants in the United States. It’s a font, the type stylized with curly, pointy-ended serifs. It’s a basket of cold, black-edged papad dressed up as bread service. Usually, though, it’s a menu of naan and curry, pleasing in its soft, warm vagueness. And so when the chef Preeti Mistry opened her first restaurant, she wanted to avoid as many of those clichés as possible. “I wanted to do something that was the opposite of all of that,” Mistry said. At first, she railed against naan and curry. It pained her that India’s vast cuisine was still, so often, reduced to that pairing. “I wanted to bring something that was more out there, that didn’t really exist yet,” she said.

    What Mistry brought was Juhu Beach Club, a small restaurant in Oakland that opened in 2013, where she cooked with ingredients from the farmers’ market. In “The Juhu Beach Club Cookbook,” which Mistry wrote with Sarah Henry last fall, she tells the story of how she grew up tasting Indian street food on the beaches of Mumbai, longing to eat more than her mother’s home-cooked meals and sneaking cans of Coke at friends’ houses. By the time she was working in the basement kitchen of Claridge’s in London, Mistry knew that cooking would be her path.

    She started with a pop-up inside a liquor store in San Francisco, where she moved in the ’90s, crushing cloves and cardamom in a coffee grinder and bringing her spice pastes from home. Eventually, she opened Juhu Beach Club, and though it closed in January, it was authentic to Mistry’s complex point of view as a first-generation Indian-American — one born in London to Asian parents from East Africa, raised in the American Midwest, cheffing in Northern California.

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  • “A lot of old-school Indian restaurants won’t use black salt because they think it’s going to be too weird,” said Mistry, referring to the dark rock salt crystals, pungent with sulfur, often used to season and bring depth to chaats and other food. “I love it, it’s awesome. It has this flavor and funk that’s really distinctive. And I’m not pandering to anyone.” Mistry put black salt in tangy, crunchy salads when she felt it belonged in them and cooked the way she liked. She bought locally grown fenugreek leaves for methi chicken, and built chaat with fresh green chickpeas. She fried the thin, crisp, delicate chickpea noodles to make sev in house, and served them with persimmons when they were in season. “I thought about the building blocks of sev puri,” Mistry said. “I thought about the elements like any chef would think about a classic dish.”

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    There were waffles on the weekends. Mistry cooked them from the same kind of fermented batter typically used to make dosa. And each summer, there was the conundrum of the tomato salad. Every California restaurant has a summery tomato salad of some kind, Mistry explained. A riff of some sort on a caprese — tomatoes, mozzarella, herbs. Mistry wanted one, too, and she experimented with many versions. There was the one with soft, creamy paneer made from fresh milk, standing in for mozzarella. But Mistry said it had too many bells and whistles. Then a few years ago, she came up with a tomato salad that drew from the flavors of a kachumber — a raw, roughly chopped salad sometimes seasoned with only cumin seeds and lemon juice. It’s this one, which I made in my Brooklyn kitchen again and again throughout August and September, that showed me very clearly what I’d miss after Juhu Beach Club closed.

    To put it together, Mistry made something resembling a green-goddess dressing — herbs blitzed with a little yogurt, vinegar and oil. Then she seasoned plain fatty yogurt with toasted, crushed cumin seeds and salt and smeared it all over a plate. She piled a mix of dressed heirloom tomatoes on top, the big ones cut into wedges, the little ones halved. And that was it. “I wanted to make it simple,” Mistry said. “I wanted to make, in the moment, just whatever felt right.”

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    It wasn’t a kachumber, not by any definition. Neither could it pass as a caprese, not that it even wanted to. It wasn’t a mash-up of the two, either. It was better — it was something that didn’t really exist yet — delicious, habit-forming and a wonderful thing to do with the last sweet, fat tomatoes of the year.

    모텔출장창원콜걸추천┌진주릉콜걸샵ღ{전라북도오피걸[카톡: LD868]『kra25.c0m』출장샵콜걸콜걸업소Y➳╫2019-01-23-10-05전라북도☏AIJ✃출장만남출장소이스홍성콜걸후기▥안마☻동출장마사지☞전라북도}천안출장오쓰피걸☞태백출장업소♂춘천출장소이스╍원주출장샵예약익산외국인출장만남☣충주출장연애인급↰{전라북도출장업계위【카톡: LD868】〖kra25.c0m〗출장코스가격출장샵안내Y★§2019-01-23-10-05전라북도╟AIJ♪콜걸출장샵후기출장색시미녀언니►출장최강미녀♨출장소이스╉전라북도}전주출장샵안내╚정읍모텔출장❁통영출장최고시☽논산출장샵추천전라북도출장업소안양출장안마↽과천출장만족보장✘{전라북도출장업계위【카톡: LD868】(kra25.c0m)출장최강미녀콜걸샵Y☢⇪2019-01-23-10-05전라북도╯AIJ⇗출장최강미녀출장만남콜걸업소➽출장최강미녀유콜걸샵☃전라북도}영천출장소이스├통영출장소이스홍성⊙전라북도출장서비스보장☎수원오피걸출장콜걸김제출장오피➴영주오피걸⇟{전라북도출장샵후기{카톡: LD868}(kra25.c0m)출장오피출장샵후기Y♨↢2019-01-23-10-05전라북도┼AIJ☼출장안마야한곳출장만남출장여대생☜출장시↹출장샵예약↩전라북도}통영콜걸┗여수출장서비스⇟구리출장안마야한곳×하남콜걸출장안마

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    A version of this article appears in print on , on Page 30 of the Sunday Magazine with the headline: The Last Great Tomato Salad of the Year
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    김제출장샵┠포항출장아가씨☲{전라북도모텔출장[카톡: LD868]『kra25.c0m』출장샵예약콜걸Y╯◢2019-01-23-10-05전라북도☼AIJ0콜걸만남출장소이스출장서비스♡출장안마✂미시출장안마◦전라북도}군산출장맛사지☈동해출장안마야한곳♚논산출장안마추천⇋광양동출장마사지
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  • 나주출장샵↾충청남도출장가격⇠{전라북도출장샵안내[카톡: LD868](kra25.c0m)출장아가씨출장만족보장Y╏←2019-01-23-10-05전라북도♯AIJ⇖오피걸출장샵예약출장안마┌출장샵강추0출장최고시╏전라북도}밀양모텔출장◎충청남도출장미인아가씨↶여수출장연애인급▒충청남도출장샵후기
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